Raihaanah Safee


Tuesday, March 19, 2024. 12:00 pm – 5:00 pm


Hue neutralizing effect of ultramarine blue in powder foundations


Raihaanah Safee

The University of Toledo


Objective: To evaluate the hue neutralizing effect of ultramarine blue in dark and light loose powder foundations with subjective and objective methods. Introduction: Skin tones can vary from light to dark, and undertones are generally categorized as warm with a red hue, neutral with a mix of a red and blue hue, or cool with a blue hue. However, there’s an uneven distribution of undertones in commercial foundations, with warm undertones dominating the market. Additionally, there is an increasing demand from consumers to improve the undertone availability in foundations. Methods: 24 darker and 24 lighter foundations were formulated. Ultramarine blue was added on top of the colorant phase between 2-10% for the dark and 0.2-1% for the light foundations. Color was tested with a colorimeter, press-downs on Leneta paper, and on human skin. Results: Significant changes were observed visually and with the colorimeter in both dark and light foundations when increasing the amount of ultramarine blue. L*a*b* values indicated that ultramarine blue in both dark and light foundations improved the overall color by decreasing the red hue, making them bluer in hue. Similar results were observed on Leneta paper and on human skin. Conclusion: Ultramarine blue proved to be beneficial in reducing the red hues in foundations to create bluer hues, suitable for consumers with neutral and cool undertones. Formulators can use these research results to implement the use of ultramarine blue in foundations to make small adjustments to current product offerings to expand the undertone availability for consumers.


Raihaanah Safee is a cosmetic chemist and is currently a second-year Industrial Pharmacy Master’s student and holds a Bachelor’s degree in Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design, both from The University of Toledo. Her passion lies in diversifying the cosmetic and pharmaceutical science industries. She is dedicated to addressing consumer acceptance issues by formulating products that cater to marginalized populations’ needs that have not been fully met. Raihaanah possesses extensive experience in formulating cosmetic and pharmaceutical products, with a particular emphasis on creating foundations that prioritize increased aesthetics and consumer acceptance.