Tuesday, March 19, 2024

7:00 am - 5:00 pm Registration Open


Welcome & Review of Line-up for TEAMWORKS 2024

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The Fight for Progress: Smart Cups’ Willy Wonka-Inspired Innovation Saga

SMART CUPS:  sustainability-driven technology providing healthier and delicious beverage options, but also applying this same technology to creating more sustainable consumables.

Chris Kanik, Founder – Smart Cups Technology

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George M. Carrera, Jr. – Amin Talati Wasserman LLP

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Wyatt Johnson, Ph.D., Global Customer Projects Manager, BioActives – Evonik

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Marie Thadal, Vice President of Sales & Operation – Coptis

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Joy E Roederer, PhD, Senior Vice President of Technology & Business Development – Integrity Ingredients Corporation

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Tracy Luckow, Co-Founder & President – Whipnotic

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Ellen Feldman Ornato, Co-founding Partner – BOLDER COMPANY

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2:00 PM - 2:25PM

 Jessica Goldberg, Azelis

 2:30 PM - 2:55 PM

Synergized Innovative Solutions for the Advancement of Beauty Thu Bui, Solabia + AppleChem 

3:00 PM - 3:25 PM

The feel-good, light-mimicking skin tone equalizer: Rootness® Mood+ Victoria Mitchell Clariant

12:00 pm – 5:00 pm – Exhibit Open & Student Poster Presentations on the Show Floor!

Student Poster Presentations will include:

Presenter: Nhi Dang

Authors: Nhi Dang and Dr. Gabriella Baki

Background Ingredient substitutions at cosmetic brands and contract manufacturers may occur in cosmetic and personal care products for a variety of reasons, including supply chain interruptions brought on by natural disasters. Cost considerations also play a significant role, since changes in the price of alternative materials force the usage of less expensive alternatives without sacrificing product quality. Additionally, product reformulations often involve swapping ingredients to align with changing consumer preferences, sustainability goals, or technological advancements. Concerns over allergies or sensitivities drive the substitution of irritants with gentler alternatives, while labeling claims such as organic or cruelty-free necessitate ingredient adjustments to meet certification standards.  Objective To goals of this study were to substitute guar gum in a hand cream with xanthan gum, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum (and) sclerotium gum, cellulose gum, carbomer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate formulate the different versions of the hand cream. Second goal, evaluating the changes that occurred via visual and instrumental techniques. The third goal was to finetune the best hand cream containing one of the alternative thickeners to closely match the original hand cream. Methods The hand creams were evaluated visually for physical stability and shine. Instrumental evaluation included testing color with a colorimeter (Konika Minolta CM5), consistency with a texture analyzer (TA.XTPlus), and pH with a pH meter (HANNA Instruments). Results The research is still ongoing. Based on our current results, we expect the hand creams to exhibit promising results. Visual evaluation suggests improved physical stability and shine compared to the original formulation containing guar gum. Instrumental measurements indicate that the hand creams formulated with alternative thickeners are likely to show favorable color, consistency, and pH values. Further analysis will be conducted to confirm these initial observations and assess the overall performance of the hand creams. Conclusions Full conclusions will be presented at the symposium

Presenter: Destiny Durante

Authors: Terry W. Moore

Ebola (EBOV) and Marburg (MARV) filoviruses are priority infectious agents due to their aggressive disease state and high lethality in infected patients. The current lack of pan-filoviral therapeutics exemplifies the need for effective treatments against diverse filoviruses. The filoviral glycoprotein (GP) has proven to be a drug-targetable site as it is conserved amongst all filoviruses and is used to mediate numerous steps in filoviral entry. In our effort to develop broad-spectrum antifilovirals, we have discovered a series of N-substituted heterocycles that target GP and effectively inhibit diverse filoviral entry in a pseudovirus assay. Selectivity and potency of these viral entry inhibitors were improved by introducing structural modifications to the heterocyclic core, N-substituents, and the amide-amino linker. The lead inhibitor displayed sub-micromolar EC50 values, 4.3-fold potency improvements compared to the hit, and a selectivity index greater than 100. In addition, antiviral activity was validated using replication-competent EBOV and MARV, mutational analysis was used to identify the suggested EBOV GP binding region, and antiviral counter-screens demonstrated reduced off-target activity for these filoviral entry inhibitors. Excellent activity coupled with favorable drug-like properties support these N-substituted heterocycles as promising broad-spectrum antifilovirals.

Presenter: Karissa Richards

Authors: Karissa Richards, Raihaanah Safee, Alaina Nuti, Dr.Gabriella Baki

To evaluate the effect of ultramarine blue versus black iron oxide on the color of dark stick foundations utilizing objective and subjective methods Introduction: Foundations serve the purpose of evening out skin tone. Finding a perfect match between foundations and skin tones continues to be a challenge, especially among consumers with darker skin tones as these foundations are formulated with a higher concentration of black iron oxide. This can lead to an ashy appearance on the skin. Methods: Eleven different dark foundation sticks were formulated with varying the ratios of ultramarine blue to black iron oxide. Objective analysis included evaluating color with a spectrophotometer (Konika Minolta CM5) and hardness with a texture analyzer (TA.XTPlus). Subjective analysis included visual assessment of the sticks on Leneta paper and swatched on human forearm skin. Results: The addition of ultramarine blue led to an overall color improvement and reduction of the ashiness of the color, resulting in warmer hues. Comparison with previous research on loose powder foundations showed similar effects in both product forms. Conclusion: The addition of ultramarine blue effectively reduced the appearance of grey cast in darker foundation sticks, resulting in warmer hues. Our results are in line with a previous study done on loose powder foundations. This suggests that it can be used to improve foundation formulations across different dosage forms and expand the options available to a variety of skin tones.

Presenter: Alaina Nuti

Authors: Alaina Nuti, Karissa Richards, and Raihaanah Safee

The objective of this research was to evaluate the effects of ultramarine blue objectively and subjectively in eleven stick foundations, specifically with lighter shades. Introduction: Undertones play an important role in foundations to get the best match for consumers’ skin tones. There are warm, cool, and neutral tones that vary in shades. Recently, the cosmetic industry has seen an increased interest in foundations that match consumers’ skin better, which means there is an increased need for a larger range of undertones in foundations. Methods: Eleven shades of stick foundations were formulated with 18 sticks per color to be tested. Ultramarine blue was added in various percentages to develop a variety of undertones for light foundation shades. The sticks are being tested for physical stability, color, and hardness as well as visual appearance on human forearm skin. Results: Research is ongoing, finalized results will be shared at the symposium. Conclusion: When completed, we expect to see improvement in the range of undertones in lighter foundation sticks; based on our preliminary research with light loose powder foundations.

Presenter: Anna Spaulding

Authors: Anna Spaulding and Dr. Gabriella Baki

Moisturizers and Lipsticks: Are Sustainable Ingredients Effective Alternatives to Synthetic Ingredients? University of Toledo Recently, consumers are calling for greater transparency for ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices because of the sustainability movement. As the sustainable product market grows, this study addresses if sustainable ingredients are as effective as synthetic ones. This study evaluated 3 different ingredient categories in lipsticks and moisturizers. 5 different formulas were created for lipsticks and moisturizers then those samples were analyzed in a series of quality, performance, and stability tests. Each lipstick and moisturizer had the same base formula and formulation steps created by Dr. Baki’s research group. The control was the formulation with the synthetic ingredients. There were three formulations where one ingredient group was replaced with a combination of sustainable ingredients. Then a formulation was created with all the ingredient groups replaced with sustainable alternatives. Lipstick ingredients were separated into three categories, including waxes, emollients, and butters. Moisturizer ingredients were also separated into three categories, including emollients, emulsifiers, and humectants. In total, there were five formulations for each product. All lipsticks and moisturizers remained stable for 6 weeks. Differences between formulations were small enough that a human would not be able to detect them. Synthetic control was used as a benchmark for traditional ingredients, not as an absolute standard. Implementing sustainable ingredients can be challenging but it is possible to have quality products while being environmentally friendly. We can conclude that in this project sustainable ingredients were effective alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

Presenter: Raihaanah Safee
Authors: Raihaanah Safee, Gabriella Baki

To evaluate the hue neutralizing effect of ultramarine blue in dark and light loose powder foundations with subjective and objective methods. Introduction: Skin tones can vary from light to dark, and undertones are generally categorized as warm with a red hue, neutral with a mix of a red and blue hue, or cool with a blue hue. However, there’s an uneven distribution of undertones in commercial foundations, with warm undertones dominating the market. Additionally, there is an increasing demand from consumers to improve the undertone availability in foundations. Methods: 24 darker and 24 lighter foundations were formulated. Ultramarine blue was added on top of the colorant phase between 2-10% for the dark and 0.2-1% for the light foundations. Color was tested with a colorimeter, press-downs on Leneta paper, and on human skin. Results: Significant changes were observed visually and with the colorimeter in both dark and light foundations when increasing the amount of ultramarine blue. L*a*b* values indicated that ultramarine blue in both dark and light foundations improved the overall color by decreasing the red hue, making them bluer in hue. Similar results were observed on Leneta paper and on human skin. Conclusion: Ultramarine blue proved to be beneficial in reducing the red hues in foundations to create bluer hues, suitable for consumers with neutral and cool undertones. Formulators can use these research results to implement the use of ultramarine blue in foundations to make small adjustments to current product offerings to expand the undertone availability for consumers.

Presenter: Jacob Sessions
Authors: Jacob Sessions

Two sets of experiments were conducted to characterize emulsion systems. First experiment aimed to evaluate several emulsions and apply scientific knowledge to describe their observed properties. The emulsifiers used in this cream comparison were Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Steareth-2 & Steareth-20, and Acrylates\/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer. The emulsifiers represented anionics, non-ionic ethoxylates, and polymeric emulsifiers. The best-performing cream emulsion was S4 with a higher amount of mineral oil and a close second was the ethoxylate emulsion S8. In the second experiment AOT emulsions were characterized using phase stains to elucidate the type.